Layer 3 – Cold Weather Layer

Layer 3 – Cold Weather layer –Feldr (square cloak) I drafted the pattern using the description of one of the cloaks found in “Viking Clothing”. It states Ibn Fadlan * describes a cloak which covers half the body leaving one arm uncovered which seems to be like the Frankish cloak worn for hundreds of years (the feldr). These were usually in a double square I did the short side 45 in (

I decided to use a white wool blanket from my fabric stash. The thread used is a wool thread, purchased in Blue wool 

I made a copper cloak pin... but at this time i cannot find it... hopefully by saturday.

Item created: December 24th 2011

Cost: wool blanket– from stash.. $0; blue wool thread purchased $2.30 oz  : red already included $0                                                     … Total $73.00

Categories/ Subcategories: Costuming: Tourney pre1000 (CT). Blanket Stitching Needlework – Surface Embriodery (N-SE)

Layer 2 – Main Layer – Trousers and Kyrtle

The pattern I made is based on the Thorsberg trouser find.  These are a pair of pants found in bog dated 100-400ad.  They have a multi-part gusset – the design is very comfortable for sitting on the floor or on a bench or on horseback. This crotch gusset is found throughout the Viking era… with the latest found as scraps used as caulking for boats in Hedeby.*

I decided to use some rust linen from my fabric stash. The thread used is a cotton thread, purchased because I could not find any linen thread locally matching the material at the time I started.

I drafted the pattern using an old pair of boxers (see braies page) and looking at sketches of the pants. First I cut up the boxers, then transferred the pattern to a cotton fabric, then I basted together the pants, made adjustments, un-basted and cut out this pair from the linen.

I evened out the waistband and belt loops and did and over stitch on both ends to strengthen.

The seams are all handsewn; using a running stitch then flat felled with a hem stitch. 

Item created: September 2011

*I decided to do a 2nd pair out of wool.. the wool was purchased at Pendleton and sewn on the sewing machine using cotton thread purchased at JoAnn's. Made October 2011.

The red trousers have a wool finger woven belt and the green pants have a wool tablet woven belt.

The trousers fit wonderfully and are quite comfortable.

Cost: Rust linen – from stash.. $0; cotton thread purchased from Joann’s $2.05; belt yellow wool $16.00

Green wool from Pendleton Woolen Mill  $5.99; cotton thread from JoAnn's $2.05; belt wool 2@16   

Total $ 68.14

Categories/ Subcategories: Costuming: Tourney pre1000 (CT).

Finger woven belt: Textile Arts: Application

Tablet woven Belt: Textile Arts: Woven

 *scraps from Hedeby – abandoned 1066 ce

Kyrtle – Main layer shirt

This kyrtle is an example of the Nockert type 1 classification, which boils down to… it has a tubular torso, with the gores inserted into the “skirt” area. These are found all over the in the Viking era.

I decided to use some natural linen from my fabric stash. The thread used is a cotton thread, purchased because I could not find any linen thread locally matching the material at the time I started.

I drafted the pattern using the sketches based on period “bog finds”. I decided to go with a triangular neckline as I find it comfortable and went with the square gussets for freedom of movement.  I also went with single piece gores instead of double or triple piece gores, as I was hand sewing the outfit and did not want to make extra work for myself.

The seams are all hand sewn; using a running stitch, then flat felled with a hem stitch.

Decorative blanket stitching was added using a contrasting linen thread.

Item created: Sept/Oct 2011

Cost: linen – from stash.. $0; same spool of cotton thread as for pants  $0…linen thread in blanket stitching same as used for the drawstring in braies .. $0      Total 68.14

Categories/ Subcategories: Costuming: Tourney pre1000 (CT) , blanket stitching - Needlework – Surface  (N-SE)

Additional items in this layer:

Tablet woven belt...same wool thread as on trousers... $0 

w/Pewter Buckle: stone donated, pewter in stash...$0

Necklace with Amber thors hammer... amber and beads from stash... linen thread same linen

Nailbinded bag... same yellow wool as before... red wool from FUZZ... $2.40oz... TOTAL $70.54

addtl categories...buckle Metalwork: Casting

Jewelery: Strung Jewelry: and Jewelry: Lapidary work

bag nail binding: Textile Arts: Woven... or is it Application??

Layer 1 – Skin Layer – Braies and undertunic

seems like i was mistaken and i am supposed to put up all my pictures and documentation.. everything was done on time..(except for posting these pictures).. ignore the dates on the camera... the viewscreen is broken and i can't fix it...

Braies – Men’s underwear

Men’s underwear is noted in sagas, there is no direct evidence of how they were made.  It is assumed it is the same cut as trousers only with short legs.

The pattern I made is based on the Thorsberg trouser find (see appendix A for full pictures).  These are a pair of pants found in bog dated 100-400ad.  They have a multi-part gusset – the design is very comfortable for sitting on the floor or on a bench or on horseback. This crotch gusset is found throughout the Viking era… with the latest found as scraps used as caulking for boats in Hedeby.*

I decided to use some white linen from my fabric stash. The thread used is a cotton thread, purchased because I could not find any linen thread locally matching the material at the time I started.

I drafted the pattern using an old pair of boxers and looking at sketches of the pants. First I cut up the boxers, then transferred the pattern to a cotton fabric, then I basted together the pants, made adjustments, un-basted and cut out this pair from the linen.

The seams are all handsewn; using a running stitch then flat felled with a hem stitch.  This is an underwear layer – so I left off the trouser loops and put in a drawstring to keep them up.

I made the drawstring using fingerloop braiding and natural colored linen purchased for the project.

The braies fit wonderfully and are quite comfortable.

Item created: August 2011

Cost: linen – from stash.. $0; cotton thread purchased from Joann’s $ 2.05; linen thread for drawstring purchased at Sequim $8.00… Total $10.05

Categories/ Subcategories: Costuming: Tourney pre1000 (CT) and drawstring Textile Application (TA-A)

*scraps from Hedeby – abandoned 1066 ce

Under tunic – Men’s underwear    

Men of the Viking era were know to wear multiple tunic layers.

These kyrtles are examples of the Nockert type 1 (see appendix B) classification, which boils down to… it has a tubular torso, with the gores inserted into the “skirt” area.

I decided to use some natural linen from my fabric stash. The thread used is a cotton thread, purchased because I could not find any linen thread locally matching the material at the time I started.

I drafted the pattern using the sketches based on period “bog finds”. I decided to go with a round neckline and went with the square gussets for freedom of movement.  I also went with single piece gores instead of double or triple piece gores, as I was hand sewing the outfit and did not want to make extra work for myself.

The seams are all hand sewn; using a running stitch, then flat felled with a hem stitch.

Item created: August 2011

Cost: linen – from stash.. $0; same spool of cotton thread  $0… Total 10.05

Categories/ Subcategories: Costuming: Tourney pre1000 (CT)     

DONE...

DONE.. my final outer layer not too exciting... i cut down a white woolen blanket to the dimension discussed in my viking book and did decorative blanket stitching on the outer edge

so
LAYER 1 braies and tunic... hand sewn linen with cotton thread
finger loop braiding for the drawstring (flax thread)
LAYER 2 trousers and kyrtle... hand sewn linen with cotton thread
belt - tablet woven w purchased wool
decorative blanket stitching on neckline (flax thread)
LAYER 3 cloak (feldr) white wool decorative blanket stitching on edges (wool on wool)
cloak clasp - hammered copper
ACCESSORY LAYER 1 - boots (based on boots found at hedeby... "viking" town)
leather with artificial sinew... hand stitched
accessory - nailbinded pouch - wool made with handmade ivory needle
accessory - tablet woven garters w/ pewter cast buckle

this is the outfit...but different undershirt/cloak and belt

even though i did make them all... it was just previously

that is what i can think of off my head while down in slc... enjoying the christmas weekend w/ family and friends

all is from my stash.. except threads .. all thread purchased during the challenge... wool and cotton

damn it teresa!!!

so... lady engeline von foxridge  is finished w/ her acc project... all layers and a ton of accessories... way to go!!
http://acc-unknown.blogspot.com/

guess i need to stop being distracted and get finished

i was looking at people's posts and realized i hadn't done my end of the month report...
I finished my boots... done hedeby style (hedeby is a viking trade settlement in denmark/germany)

i entered my trousers and kyrtle in our local baronial a&s event to get feedback... seems my work was good... my documentation and sources have a slight problem.. but i did get a LOT of feed back

here is a picture of the boots...

only 1 layer left and i decided to go with the cloak... i will be doing a large rectangular cloak... white wool (from my stash).. i will be doing some couching and embroidery on it

 

this is a display of my shoes and my pants

this is my tunic on "esmarelda"

and my wife won the competition with her excellent monchego (sp) cheese, chicken basket, and felted/covered slippers

looking forward to seeing some of you at one thousand eyes b-day... sorry i decided against coming to collegium

- dame varia

kyrtle

Kyrtle is finished... just need to jazz it up with some simple embroidery... decided to make a different (longer) belt to hold my pants up... but got distracted 'cause i designed a "vair" pattern that i will be using for minion giftees... so i have to restring and do another belt

so layer one - braies and undertunic - DONE
layer two - trousers and kyrtle - DONE
outer layer - now i'm trying to decide whether to do a kaftan or a large rectangular cloak w/ embroidery, couching and (that other thing when you cut out shapes and tack them down and make pretties... noun gone.. :(
accessory - shoes

also here is a picture of the green wool pants i made from my awesome pattern...(wool from pendleton)
my wife was forced to wear these when we processed for crown (as her pretty dress had been left nicely laying on the chair... so it wouldn't wrinkle... and was being brought to the event...all the way from boise... too late) along with handstiched linen undertunic i had done..