The pattern I made is based on the Thorsberg trouser find. These are a pair of pants found in bog dated 100-400ad. They have a multi-part gusset – the design is very comfortable for sitting on the floor or on a bench or on horseback. This crotch gusset is found throughout the Viking era… with the latest found as scraps used as caulking for boats in Hedeby.*
I decided to use some rust linen from my fabric stash. The thread used is a cotton thread, purchased because I could not find any linen thread locally matching the material at the time I started.
I drafted the pattern using an old pair of boxers (see braies page) and looking at sketches of the pants. First I cut up the boxers, then transferred the pattern to a cotton fabric, then I basted together the pants, made adjustments, un-basted and cut out this pair from the linen.
I evened out the waistband and belt loops and did and over stitch on both ends to strengthen.
The seams are all handsewn; using a running stitch then flat felled with a hem stitch.
Item created: September 2011
*I decided to do a 2nd pair out of wool.. the wool was purchased at Pendleton and sewn on the sewing machine using cotton thread purchased at JoAnn's. Made October 2011.
The red trousers have a wool finger woven belt and the green pants have a wool tablet woven belt.
The trousers fit wonderfully and are quite comfortable.
Cost: Rust linen – from stash.. $0; cotton thread purchased from Joann’s $2.05; belt yellow wool $16.00
Green wool from Pendleton Woolen Mill $5.99; cotton thread from JoAnn's $2.05; belt wool 2@16
Total $ 68.14
Categories/ Subcategories: Costuming: Tourney pre1000 (CT).
Finger woven belt: Textile Arts: Application
Tablet woven Belt: Textile Arts: Woven
*scraps from Hedeby – abandoned 1066 ce
Kyrtle – Main layer shirt
This kyrtle is an example of the Nockert type 1 classification, which boils down to… it has a tubular torso, with the gores inserted into the “skirt” area. These are found all over the in the Viking era.
I decided to use some natural linen from my fabric stash. The thread used is a cotton thread, purchased because I could not find any linen thread locally matching the material at the time I started.
I drafted the pattern using the sketches based on period “bog finds”. I decided to go with a triangular neckline as I find it comfortable and went with the square gussets for freedom of movement. I also went with single piece gores instead of double or triple piece gores, as I was hand sewing the outfit and did not want to make extra work for myself.
The seams are all hand sewn; using a running stitch, then flat felled with a hem stitch.
Decorative blanket stitching was added using a contrasting linen thread.
Item created: Sept/Oct 2011
Cost: linen – from stash.. $0; same spool of cotton thread as for pants $0…linen thread in blanket stitching same as used for the drawstring in braies .. $0 Total 68.14
Categories/ Subcategories: Costuming: Tourney pre1000 (CT) , blanket stitching - Needlework – Surface (N-SE)
Additional items in this layer:
Tablet woven belt...same wool thread as on trousers... $0
w/Pewter Buckle: stone donated, pewter in stash...$0
Necklace with Amber thors hammer... amber and beads from stash... linen thread same linen
Nailbinded bag... same yellow wool as before... red wool from FUZZ... $2.40oz... TOTAL $70.54
addtl categories...buckle Metalwork: Casting
Jewelery: Strung Jewelry: and Jewelry: Lapidary work
bag nail binding: Textile Arts: Woven... or is it Application??