Tuesday, January 3, 2012

Layer 1 – Skin Layer – Braies and undertunic

seems like i was mistaken and i am supposed to put up all my pictures and documentation.. everything was done on time..(except for posting these pictures).. ignore the dates on the camera... the viewscreen is broken and i can't fix it...


Braies – Men’s underwear

Men’s underwear is noted in sagas, there is no direct evidence of how they were made.  It is assumed it is the same cut as trousers only with short legs.

The pattern I made is based on the Thorsberg trouser find (see appendix A for full pictures).  These are a pair of pants found in bog dated 100-400ad.  They have a multi-part gusset – the design is very comfortable for sitting on the floor or on a bench or on horseback. This crotch gusset is found throughout the Viking era… with the latest found as scraps used as caulking for boats in Hedeby.*
I decided to use some white linen from my fabric stash. The thread used is a cotton thread, purchased because I could not find any linen thread locally matching the material at the time I started.

I drafted the pattern using an old pair of boxers and looking at sketches of the pants. First I cut up the boxers, then transferred the pattern to a cotton fabric, then I basted together the pants, made adjustments, un-basted and cut out this pair from the linen.

The seams are all handsewn; using a running stitch then flat felled with a hem stitch.  This is an underwear layer – so I left off the trouser loops and put in a drawstring to keep them up.

I made the drawstring using fingerloop braiding and natural colored linen purchased for the project.

The braies fit wonderfully and are quite comfortable.

Item created: August 2011

Cost: linen – from stash.. $0; cotton thread purchased from Joann’s $ 2.05; linen thread for drawstring purchased at Sequim $8.00… Total $10.05

Categories/ Subcategories: Costuming: Tourney pre1000 (CT) and drawstring Textile Application (TA-A)

*scraps from Hedeby – abandoned 1066 ce


Under tunic – Men’s underwear    

Men of the Viking era were know to wear multiple tunic layers.

These kyrtles are examples of the Nockert type 1 (see appendix B) classification, which boils down to… it has a tubular torso, with the gores inserted into the “skirt” area.

I decided to use some natural linen from my fabric stash. The thread used is a cotton thread, purchased because I could not find any linen thread locally matching the material at the time I started.

I drafted the pattern using the sketches based on period “bog finds”. I decided to go with a round neckline and went with the square gussets for freedom of movement.  I also went with single piece gores instead of double or triple piece gores, as I was hand sewing the outfit and did not want to make extra work for myself.

The seams are all hand sewn; using a running stitch, then flat felled with a hem stitch.

Item created: August 2011

Cost: linen – from stash.. $0; same spool of cotton thread  $0… Total 10.05

Categories/ Subcategories: Costuming: Tourney pre1000 (CT)     





No comments:

Post a Comment